My friends and I all have new furniture makeover projects for Furniture Fixer Uppers Day today (find theirs at the bottom of this post), and I’m sharing this end table/nightstand from the thrift store. It’s a sturdy piece with no maker markings. We’ll discuss painting and glazing furniture, which is something I haven’t tried before. Let’s see how this turns out…
*This post contains some affiliate links so you can easily find the products I use and recommend. Discover all my favorite brands and tools for doing DIY makeovers here.
This piece is a mix of real wood (legs and inside the drawer) and faux woodgrain areas elsewhere. First, I started by sanding it all over with 220-grit sandpaper to give the paint something to grip to, and then wiping it down with a damp cloth. Learn more about how to properly prep furniture for painting here.
I had a certain idea of how I wanted this table to look, so I started with Rustoleum Chalked Paint in Linen White and also bought Rustoleum Chalked Smoked Glaze to try for the first time. (Note: This is not a sponsored post.)
Another note: If you’ve been following me for awhile, you know that I use Annie Sloan Chalk Paint frequently. You can even read all about how to Chalk Paint furniture here. Unfortunately, my local ASCP retailer had a change of ownership and they have temporarily closed until they find a new location. This is why I’ve been using Rustoleum Chalked Paint colors so much the past few months, but honestly I do think it’s a decent alternative to ASCP. Read my honest review of Rustoleum Chalked Paint here.
The table was painted in two coats of white paint with one of my favorite Purdy paint brushes.
After the paint dried, I lightly sanded the table for smoothness and lightly distressed the edges.
Next it was time for the decorative glaze which gives more depth and an antiqued finish. Rustoleum Chalked has two different tints of glaze: Smoked and Aged. Smoked is more gray and Aged is more brown. I thought I would be adding a light gray glaze over the white table, so I was surprised when I opened the Smoked can and it was dark gray – almost black! (You can learn more about the glaze here on Amazon, but I did have trouble finding it in stock anywhere – finally I found this small can at Hobby Lobby.)
First, stir the glaze to mix it well. This glaze is pretty thin and drippy, but it’s water based so it’s not difficult to clean up.
The can says to let the paint fully cure for 3-4 days before applying the glaze. I was only able to let it cure for about 2 days, so it might’ve affected the outcome of this project. I’ll explain more in a minute.
Apply the glaze with a foam brush or paint brush, being sure to get it into all the nooks and crannies. Next you’re supposed to wipe away the glaze with a cheesecloth or lint free cloth.
I attempted to wipe away the excess glaze, but this stuff dries really fast! The can says you can use a damp cloth to help wipe it away and control where you want the glaze to be lighter. I dampened the cloth very lightly and rubbed where the glaze was too heavy, and basically it ended up wet distressing some areas of the table and let the original wood peek through. This might’ve happened because I didn’t wait for the full cure time of 3-4 days before glazing.
Continue working in one section at a time, brushing on the Rustoleum Smoked Glaze and then wiping it away with a lightly damp cloth. The glaze highlights details and curves and can look amazing on the right piece of furniture. This gray glaze was a lot darker than I anticipated though, so next time I’ll probably use it on a different color than white.
The next step was to add some interesting patterned paper inside the drawer with Mod Podge decoupage glue.
Finally, I added a new gray glass antique-looking pull from Anthropologie (on clearance, from my stash).
And here’s what painting and glazing furniture with white and gray looks like…
I didn’t add a topcoat yet because I wanted to give the paint and glaze a little more time to fully cure.
Although I think it’s kind of cool, this is more distressed looking than my usual style. I’d love to know what you think! Should I leave it as-is or go back to plain white without the glaze? **UPDATE: I changed the table! See more photos further below.
Here’s a peek at the pretty decoupage paper in the drawer:
Now you know the lessons I’ve learned from glazing furniture. I’d love to know if you’ve used glaze before – maybe another brand works differently? Let me know your thoughts in a comment below.
Please feel free to share or Pin this project to easily find it again later.
UPDATE: I sat with this table for awhile and finally decided that I didn’t love the heavily-glazed look. I went back and brushed more white paint over the table, leaving the glaze in some areas to accentuate the grooves and curves. Then I sanded it smooth but there is still some nice texture – just not as dramatic as before. And here is the updated table now:
I hope you like the updated table better – I love it now! – Jen
And now it’s Furniture Fixer Uppers time with my creative friends.
Below are their Before photos – visit the links underneath to see the awesome Afters and to learn how they did it:
1. Confessions of a Serial DIYer
2. Salvaged Inspirations
3. Petticoat Junktion
Denise Zdziennicki says
Beautiful Jen! I haven’t used this brand of glaze before but from the brands I have used, there is a lot of ‘play time’ and they don’t dry as quickly.
Fiona says
So pretty! I’ve used the Aged Glaze from RustOleum several times and I usually water it down, or mix it with a clear glaze so it’s not as intense. I love the depth and layered effect that glazes add. This is a beautiful piece! Lovely job. 🙂
Niki says
I’m not really a fan of the 70’s early 80’s heavy wood pieces with dark stain or faux wood grain. I think it looks 100 times better Jen. Glaze is something people either like or dislike so I’m sure you’ll have a little bit of both sides in your reply’s. I don’t mind glaze, I’m sorry it gave you some trouble. Have a great weekend!
Debra says
Hey Jen
Your work is always beautiful and your instructions are so easy to follow. I’ve used this same combination several times and learned the hard way about following the cure directions. After sanding and repainting the piece I put it in a corner and let it cure for 5 days. A little time out did us both some good! Chalk paint apparently is very pourous and if not fully cured, it soaks up the glaze like a sponge. The key to success is letting the chalk paint cure for at least 4-5 days. The longer the paint cures the easier the glaze is to work with. The Aged Glaze is also a great finish. I’ve used both on chalkboard frames with fantastic results. Ace Hardware Carrie’s the
7 oz and 30 oz cans.
Jennifer says
I always love your work, but I’m not a fan of this piece-so sorry! I just think the glaze was too dark, but I’m sure there are some people out there who disagree and will buy it right up!
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
No worries, I’m not quite sure if I like it yet either – ha! Thanks for your (kind) honesty! 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks Fiona! Yeah I think this color glaze was just a little too dark for the white paint. I was really expecting a pale gray glaze- maybe I should’ve just done a gray wash with paint instead. I’m happy to try new techniques and keep learning though! 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks so much Niki! I’m willing to try glaze again, but probably not on white next time. 😉
Sue says
Wow Jen, I thought it looked fantastic.. glaze drying super fast, try using baby wipes, just moist enough. 😉
Kathy says
I agree totally with you! Love love her work, but I don’t care for this at all..SORRY
Liz says
Hi!
I’ve used the Rust-Oleum Smoked Glaze on two projects now. Used directly on chalk paint, it absorbs and dries really dark almost instantly, but if you coat your piece with polyacrylic first, let that dry, then use a wet rag to wipe back the glaze, you can get a much lighter effect and way more control over it.
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
That’s the point of trying new things… to see what works and what doesn’t! 🙂 And that way you all don’t have to go waste your own money if you see me try something first and decide you don’t like how it looks.
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks so much for your insight, Sue! Have a great day 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks for the tip, Debra. I figured it had to do with the curing time, unfortunately I couldn’t wait any longer since this project was due today. 🙂 And of course it took me a couple days just to find the glaze in stock somewhere, which means other people must be using it and enjoying it!
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
That’s very interesting, Liz- thanks for sharing!
Verda L Haiducek says
Please leave this as it is–I think it is beautiful, and would purchase this over a plain white one any day–even though I also love distressed white!
Jillianne says
I always get a lot of value when I read about a project that didn’t go as planned (I encounter that phenomenon regularly 😜). We viewers get all the benefits of what you learn without any personal effort.
As far as the piece, the level of contrast is jarring to me. If the glaze were only in cracks and crevices, it might be okay, but it turned out looking kinda dirty to me (apparently because of the shortened cure-time or the chalk paint being so porous) . Of course, some brilliant decorator could make it look like a million bucks in the right setting. I agree with you – see if it sells as-is before redoing it.
Love your work!
Caye Cooper says
Actually, I rather like it! LOVE the inside paper too. If you want to make a change, could you just accent all the curves with the glaze? Since it’s water based could you mix it with a bit of water to lighten it a tad and then accent the curves? But as you suggested, you’ll find out what to do as you try to sell it. All in all, GREAT JOB!!
Karen H says
I think it looks fabulous!
Christy James says
I like it!! Dixie Belle makes a sealer called Clear Coat that does not yellow over white paint. If you seal it first with the satin finish, you will have more time to work with the glaze. That chalk paint soaks it right up! You’ll probably find also that it will then stay in all the areas you want like the recesses and details, and come off of the flat areas and you will probably be happier with that look. I do like the outcome though! XOXO
Linda says
I do like the glaze the way you did it. i think it shows off all the details of the piece, I think it’s a great job done.
Cheryl says
Hi Jen
I find that if you seal with a coat of wax or varnish before glazing, it gives you more time to work with it. Light coats of glaze and add another if not dark enough.
Judi says
Sorry Jen, I’m afraid I don’t like it. The glaze has just succeeded in making the whole piece look a bit grubby, and if I’m honest a bit amateurish, which is far from your normal look. Hope that doesn’t cause offence, but I feel that if I’m going to make a comment it should be honest. Personally, I’d start over, but obviously your choice.
Linda Ewing says
I realize it’s hard to appreciate the effect a process has on a piece of furniture from an online photo but it looks to me like you might have been able to get the same look by using black wax. There’s too much contrast in the colors for my taste but, hey, put it out there and see what happens. I am always inspired by your posts.
Kathryn says
I love using glazes, but I usually dilute them to get a softer look. And sometimes you need to put the topcoat on to make the surface a little more slick so it sticks mostly where you want it to. I’ve used Dixie Belle glazes and homemade thinned down paint.
Robin says
I love Valspar Antiquing Glaze. I also use a clear poly coat before the glaze so the paint doesn’t absorb it.
Christie says
I like it. I think that since it’s so different from your usual work, it will take a while before you get used to it.
Once you learn the techniques of glazing, it’ll get much easier. First, the curing time of the paint is essential in it not wet distressing your paint. Each gaze has a different cure time for the paint substrate.
For an easier time wiping the glaze back, for a cleaner look, and for more control, apply a thin layer of topcoat first. Chalk paint is so porous that it soaks the glaze up, gripping it like glue.
Let the glaze dry for at least 24 hours (or the recommended cure time per manufacturer) before applying the topcoat layer; otherwise, you may accidentally remove some of your hard work or blur it out.
Each brand of glaze has a different open time, paint cure time, whether it needs topcoated after drying, etc. I’ve used many brands and found two I love. One has been discontinued, and the other is Heirloom Traditions Antiquing Gels. The HT antiquing gels come in many colors, including metallics, are thick, have an open time of up to 12 hours (I’ve found it’s usually about an hour), and have a built-in topcoat. Though they’re marketed for HT paints, I use them over regular chalk-type paints with ease and have even found that if I sand the paint to a smooth finish first, I often don’t need to prep the paint with a sealant first. Paint only needs to cure for 24 hours prior to application. Not having to apply a top coat after application due to the built-in topcoat saves an extra step and a lot of time. For the best soft gray, the Weathered Wood Antiquing gel is the way to go. It’s the most gorgeous and versatile color.
No, I don’t work for Heirloom Traditions or sell their products. I’ve just found that for this glaze-loving painter, this is the top product that has remedied every pesky aspect of the old glazing process. I highly recommend giving it a try for your next glazing project.
Cara Hafer says
I’ve used Paint Couture Clear glaze and colored it. It stays open a long time. It does absorb into chalk paint. I have used it directly on chalk paint to change the color and over a topcoat to add depth to the detail.
Marietta Walker says
Just about any time I tried glazing over white or any light with a dark glaze, It is not somthing I like. It just always seemto be too streaky and uneven when I try it and I end up painting over it.
I hate being honest times; but as you have probably figured it out, it isn’t something I like the look of. Still, the other ladies seem to like it, love it even, so I would set on it a while and see what happens.
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks Verda! I do love distressed white too- I’m still deciding…. 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks Jillianne! I do love a simple white makeover, but even sometimes I get bored with those. 😉 I did think of maybe adding some more white paint over the bigger areas and leaving the glaze in the crevices… that might look nice!
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts, Caye! 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Aww thank you Karen!
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks Christy! I thought the paint and glaze would work well together since they’re the same brand- go figure. I’ll definitely change my technique for the next time I use glaze- thanks for the tips! xo
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks so much, Linda!
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks for the advice, Cheryl! I may have to try that next time. 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
I appreciate your honesty, Judi. Kind honesty can always be helpful. 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Linda, that’s what I was thinking as I was already halfway done – it looks like a graywash (which I’ve done with paint before) or black wax. If the glaze had been a light silvery glaze like I thought it would be, I think the result would’ve been much softer. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
It seems like several people have done the same thing, dilute the glaze or apply it after the topcoat. I’ll have to try that next time! 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks for the tip, Robin!
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks so much for all the helpful advice, Christie! I haven’t heard of that one, so I’ll have to look into it.
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks Marietta! It was definitely a learning experience and I’ve learned so much more by reading everyone’s advice in the comments too. I may try a different glazing technique next time.
Bennie Mattox says
Oh darn! I wish I had read this 3 days ago! I needed to stain the top of a table that is some kind of faux wood, but looks like wood, because it has what is supposed to be knot holes and grain….but it’s fake wood. So, after stripping and sanding, I wanted to stain it with a dark color. I watched tons of YouTubes and there are none that show how to stain over fake wood. Thank you for sharing your experience and I will surely give Heirloom Traditions a try.
Carol Ybarra says
Like, very much!
Cheryl Atkinson says
Hi Jen. I have started using Annie Sloan after using Dixie Belle for years. I have not tried the Rust-Oleum yet but I do know that you should always top coat before you glaze. I’m kind of surprised you didn’t know this, but you never know what’s going to happen until you try it. Now you know and hey, it’s just paint.
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thanks Carol! 🙂
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Hi Cheryl – Nope, I just followed the directions on the can (which should be sufficient), like most of my readers would do who haven’t tried this glaze before. Sharing my experience helps all the beginners out there who would otherwise end up with the same problem as me! I’m happy to try it out firsthand so others can learn. 🙂
Anna says
I love the piece. Thank you for sharing. What do you use for top coat to permanently seal it?
Jen, Girl in the Garage says
Thank you! 🙂 I use furniture wax by Annie Sloan (usually clear), applied with a lint-free cloth.